Portovenere

Five hours, the full coast. Ghibli leaves Molo dei Pescatori at nine-thirty, Captain Benedetto at the helm — forty years reading this water — and runs the entire line of the Cinque Terre before it ever reaches Portovenere: Vernazza pressing close around its harbour, Corniglia high among the vineyards, Manarola's houses stacked over the rock, Riomaggiore climbing its ravine. Past Riomaggiore, the coast opens into the Gulf of Poets, where legend has Byron setting off on his swim across the gulf to Lerici, and where the water itself narrows toward the black-and-white striped façade of San Pietro's church, built on the headland where a temple to Venus once gave the port its Roman name — Portus Veneris.

## Byron's Grotto and the Blue Grotto

Beneath the church, in the cave known as Byron's Grotto, the boat slows to five knots inside the Marine Protected Area and stops long enough to swim and snorkel where Byron is said to have started that crossing — masks aboard, no extra charge, no ceremony about it. From there Ghibli crosses to Palmaria, the island that guards the mouth of the gulf, and follows its cliffs around to the Blue Grotto, where the light underwater turns a color with no real name of its own — somewhere between glass and ink.

## Time Ashore in Portovenere

Portovenere itself gets real time, not a photo stop from the boat. Guests come ashore and walk the single street running the length of the old town, under the arcades, past the tall, narrow houses in ochre and rust that once stood shoulder to shoulder as a defensive wall against raiders from the sea. The climb up to San Pietro's church is short and steep, and it earns its view — the whole coast laid out back toward the Cinque Terre. Above the rooftops, the Doria castle, raised by the Genoese in the twelfth century to hold this stretch of water, still looks out over the gulf exactly as it was built to. There's time to sit, get a coffee or a slice of focaccia, and just be in the town before Ghibli takes everyone back out.

## A UNESCO Coast, Kept Slow

This whole stretch — the Cinque Terre, the Gulf of Poets, Palmaria, Portovenere — has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997, and much of the water Ghibli crosses lies inside a protected regional park and marine reserve. That's the reason the coves stay clear and the coast between villages is still mostly free of buildings: boats here run slow near shore, engines quiet, Ghibli included. It's the longest tour Ghibli runs and the only one that leaves the Cinque Terre altogether — a full day on a working fishing boat, not a bus ride with a view.